Day 9: Pining Away

Once again, I was the first to leave the albergue. Up at 7am and out by 7:30. It's a cold crisp morning and I can see my breath, but it's pure sun above.

In the beginning the Walk is along a cliff with a pine forest on the left and a river valley far below on the right with light pockets of mist rising as the day warms. The sun has only been up for and hour and it is streaming straight across the valley to bathe the trunks of the pines in bright morning light. The forest smells of damp grass and fresh green pine needles.

9:15 I arrived at Villeguillo and am devastated to find the bar not open - too early or because Sunday? The next town is 4.5 hrs away!!

Carlos just whizzed by, rather upset. He spent an hour this morning looking for the Camino. Apparently there are 2 cemetaries on the edge of town and obviously he went by the wrong one. Now he must go muy rapido so he can meet his family at the right time in Alcazaren. (I obviously let him go on ahead).

After the pueblo it's out into the fields again on a gravel road by high powerlines. I wonder if I missed a turn already as there hasn't been any arrows for a bit but I see Carlos's red backpack bobbing away in the distance so I continue on.




Carlos in Coca


Another pine forest - more open than the previous ones, with tall grassy undergrowth and baby pine trees. There is some old evidence of sap sucking but the scars are almost healed- at rest? The road is of loose sand which makes for some good exercise. As if I need any more! I zigzag across from rut to rut looking for the harder packed sand, I hope I'm not adding any extra kms...

On & on, pines... I'm pining away...

Carlos is miles ahead. I try to match my stride to the footprints he's left in the sand and I can't for long

In the warmth of the afternoon sun the forest is different. Sound seems deafened in the heat and contrary to the morning, it's the rich aroma of the pine bark that really comes out.

There's a horseshoe on road, I wonder if it was one of my caballeros' horses that threw it?

Tick tock
Tick tock
On I walk

Just saw a lady on a bike with a dog; besides her, the only signs of life have been Carlos, and 2 cars with farmers. I've been alone all day. Peaceful.

I like to leave early in the mornings so I can arrive at the day's destination with plenty of time to shower, do the day's laundry, have a little rest and maybe see the town. This doesn't always work, especially on the longer stages but today I arrived at 3pm and the albergue has a nice drying yard so everything is getting clean!

Pilgrim Notes:
Carlos warned me that the Camino splits once you read a paved road to cross. His book recommends you turn to the Right as the arrows are poorly marked the other way; however, the arrow pointing straight seemed to be newly painted, and I'd have to walk along the highway to the alternate route, I decide to be a renegade and continue on.
The road is ruler-straight thru cereal fields, with a pine forest on the distant right. The Camino curves around an old farm (stay to right at unmarked vee in road), and continue straight until you're back into the forest again.

The albergue is NOT in Plaza Mayor beside the church anymore. There's a brand new one at the far right corner of Plaza El Ruedo. Key at Bar Real. 8 beds, wet shower/bathroom, fridge & microwave.