Day 8: Away in the Night

Castillo in Coca

Well, not really. I woke up at 7am and was ready to go. Thru the skylight I could see that it was light and still dry so I thought I'd better make tracks while the going was good. Not wanting to waken the boys, I slipped on my shoes, grabbed my pack and dragged my sleeping bag outside to stuff it in it's little case. I really would have liked to use brush my teeth and wash my face before I left but I don't think I could have tiptoed over all those forms on the floor.

Shortly after leaving town the camino once again entered into a wonderful pine forest; it'd obviously been planted long ago, and was now a loose grid of eerily quiet trees in the dim morning light. I felt like Hansel & Gretel, following yellow arrows instead of breadcrumbs to find my way....

A further section of the forest revealed their purpose: each tree had a 5' scar down the trunk where the sap has been collected over time to be used as resin in paint and furniture factories. I later learned that each scar was used for about 10 years before another was started a quarter-turn around the trunk. I guess after 40 years they're allowed to rest a bit cause a sign said some trees are 350 years old!

I made it into Nava in good time (about 12kms). I found 2 panaderias, but do u think I could find an open bar? Doesnt anyone drink coffee in this town? It's 10:30am on a Saturday and this peregrina needs caffeine! Eventually 2 tiny ladies about 4' each pointed me to my rescue. I had a very slow coffee and toast, waiting to see if Michael and Estefan would catch up but they must be aways behind.

temporary repair

I did find a 'bazaar' shop and bought myself some shoe insoles in case my shoes need more surgery. They hung in today quite well.

Funnily, it got colder the morning went on. Still cloudy grey skies but no rain yet. I stopped just out of Nava at a confusing junction where the arrows were pointing in 2 different directions, and decided to put on my gloves and fleece while pondering my dilemma, when I looked behind me and saw another pilgrim walking up so I waited to see what he would do. Quite confidently he pointed to the Right, so that's the way we both went. His name was Carlos, a Madridelino, and he had stopped working in January and his retirement gift to himself was to walk the Camino de Santiago. We walked the rest of the way to Coca together. His English was much better than my Spanish, and it was nice to walk & talk with someone for a change. Saying that, I never bothered to take any more photographs, except of my 5 caballeros when they rode past.

Carlos was able to ask directions of a local to find the lady who had the key to the albergue; then we went and had a nice 3-course lunch together. He is staying at a B&B tonight, then walking a short distance tomorrow before meeting his family who are driving up from Madrid so I probably won't see him again, but he gave me his mobile number in case I ever have any trouble with directions or translations along the way. Very kind.

Coca has a beautifully restored castle from the 15th C. and a tiny bit of town walls left (they broke them down thinking that would ease the plague, then others stole the stones to build other projects). I did the tourist bit and went into the castle, which meant climbing up the towers on foot-high steps (ouch!), then wandered town a bit. By the time I returned to the albergue the guys had arrived and were nursing some blisters. Now it's off to find some 'wee-fee'!

what´s left of the town walls

Coca Plaza Mayor

street in Coca

Pilgrim Notes:
Leaving Sta Maria, be vigilant re: by the old bull-ring
Turns out taking either way at junction after Nava is fine (Mike&Estefan went the other way)

The albergue is in an old house just off the Camino as you come into town (arrows point to it), just before the closed Fonseca Cultural Center at #28 Ave. Jose Antonio. Get key from 'Charo' at #19 Ave. Jose Antonio, €3 donation, hot water, kitchen with fridge&micro, lounge room, 4 rooms upstairs with 14 beds total.

Coca albergue