Day 21: On The Road Again

I had a nice lazy start this morning, I didn't leave Astorga till 9am! I had an epiphany yesterday afternoon: my hiking shoes were going to carry me to Santiago after all, so I didn't need to be carrying my spare runners, as light as they might be. I would post them and my gaiters (because I'm not allowing it to rain) on to Santiago to pick up later. Unfortunately the P.O. in Astorga was already closed when I had this revelation so I had to wait till this morning to send them off.

I awoke at 6:30am and the room was almost empty, only Edna (Canadian) and a Korean lady were left. Edna had such bad blisters that she saw a doctor yesterday who advised her to get new shoes and take 2 days off walking. So she and I had a nice leisurely coffee with flaky chocolate croissants at the only open bar while waiting for the P.O. to open. She is from Kelowna, BC and also a Camino Forum member! That makes 2 now!

Leaving Astorga, I felt as though I was the last pilgrim on the road, I had the road to myself for so many kilometers. But as the time ticked by and the Way opened up into the country I slowly passed other pilgrims who dawdled even more than I.

We passed through some lovely quaint villages that have slowly been reclaimed from ruin by the Camino that runs through them. Some had been crumbling down to just a few inhabitants but the Camino's at least brought some commercial life back, in the way of bars, albergues and countless cafe con leches. Many buildings have been lovingly restored with beautiful stone & wood work and enlivened with colorful windowboxes of spring pansies. As interesting as Astorga was, I kinda regret not staying in one of these peaceful towns.

Stopping for coffee in one of these villages, I sat "way"-side and watched a steady stream of pilgrims walk by. I wonder how difficult it will be getting a bed tonight after such a late start...

It felt soo good to be walking again! All limbs were functioning perfectly; not a twinge nor ache all day (knock on wood). The scenery was spectacular - fields of yellow broom; then broom mixed with lavender with rolling hills of trees in every direction. The path was fairly straight, with a slight rise in elevation all day as we slowly progressed towards the mountain that will be tomorrow's climb and the highest point of the whole Camino. However, today the sun was warm, the air fresh, sky blue and the breeze cool = bliss. Could it get any better?

Memories of my last Camino crowd my present mind walking into Rabanal; indeed, this whole part of the Camino. I remember quite vividly being here last time and I'm even quoting to myself comments I made in my past travelogue, so accurate they still seem, so I'm a little conscious of repeating myself again. What do I describe, and how to do it differently? But as this blog is really my form of writing a diary, I'll blather on as I wont to entertain myself.

One of the albergues highly recommended on my Camino Forum is the Gaucelmo here in Rabanal. It was completely full when I passed through in 2007, so I was pleased to arrive today just 10mins before it opened and thus able to secure a bed. It is run by the UK-based Confraternity of St James and is a lovely oasis of calm and peacefulness in the relentless tide of pilgrims. They offer afternoon tea(!) at 4:30, breakfast in the morning, a fantastically huge garden for sitting and reflecting, and a lounge with a working fireplace for cold or rainy nights. Can I move in?

They served us afternoon tea!

There's a nice mix of people here, including some faces from last night. If I started so late, what did they do all day to arrive after me?? Oh, BTW, 'twas a 21.4kms day...

Most ran off for evening mass at the tiny 12thC. church in the square, 30' from the albergue. I had popped in earlier to pay my respects so I took advantage of the lull in the kitchen to make myself a little egg for dinner.
One of the hospitaleros was stuck on duty while the other 2 went to dinner, so I sat out on the patio with him enjoying a sip of wine. A couple of pilgrims returned, so I popped down to the tienda (store) to buy another $3 bottle so we could continue to enjoy the camaraderie and fading daylight.

I must remember to pull in my laundry...

Thanks, Allison
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