Day 29: Santiago!!

Last morning on the Camino. Bill is sad and is hiding behind a callus....

Another cool, misty morning start. It was lovely and peaceful and a perfect start to my last day on the road. The path meandered behind small farms with their orchards and gardens, thru tiny hamlets, while continually criss-crossing the highway, just a reminder that modern civilization was coming closer and closer.

There's a lot of crosses, monuments and rest stops here, I guess they're worried about pilgrims making the last 20kms?

I turned a corner in Arco, a typical end-of-stage town, and whack, right into pilgrim morning rush hour. I merged into a pack of Germans and we hightailed it thru the forest. Just 15kms now to Santiago, maybe they're running to make Mass?

Luckily for me, a bar showed up at exactly the 2-hour mark, my preferred break time, so I eased over to the exit lane and dropped out of the race.

My plan was foiled! The pilgrim numbers are just too strong, so my 100 new friends and I went
up thru an old logging area, alongside more highway, past the end of the airport, and into another forest where I finally kicked it up a notch to lose them and sped-walked the rest of the way into Santiago (with one little beer stop 5kms out, a girl has to recharge her batteries!)

The little mileage markers which had so diligently marked off every 1/2km for the last several days suddenly stop at about 12kms. I think they realized they had the distance incorrect, or at least it was only marking to the outskirts of town because the Way goes on and on and on over nasty sidewalk until you finally reach the Old Town of Santiago. Fortunately I've done the slog before so I knew what to expect but I could practically hear the other pilgrims thinking: are we there yet?! as they pounded off the last 5kms.

Santiago! I made it!!

The town was crazy busy, with people bumping elbows as they window-shopped and checked out the cafe offerings in the narrow arcaded streets. I ended up getting to the post office 20mins too late and now can't retrieve my package till Monday morning! I was about to put myself in a foul mood when I came across some friendly faces having an alfresco lunch. Needless to say I joined them for several hours of good cheer and chilled bottles of rosé wine.

I was supposed to meet Mickey and Rob again for dinner but my hour nap ended up lasting from 6pm-4am!! Guess I needed the rest...

Well, my Camino is now over but there will soon be new roads to travel (just not on foot!)
Buen Camino.

Day 28: Oops, I Forgot....

A very cold and windy start to the day, but beautifully clear. I had enough steam between my ears to keep me warm, anyway. I made myself beside myself at the huge long line of pilgrims trudging before me, passing me, me passing them, and trailing behind me. Many people start just before the 100km mark (Sarria) so they can qualify for their "compostela" in Santiago, ergo the masses now on the road.

There were too many pilgrims to be wishing "Buen Camino" to every single one, and I'm sure many of the new probably don't recognize that typical pilgrim greeting. Many were tour-o-grinos, walking with daypacks while their taxi or tour bus met them along the way. I know I shouldn't judge others but the influx of humanity spoiled my mood, and the only shining light in the trudge was seeing some friends along the way. At this point I just want to get to Santiago and be done with it...

We eventually all found our pace and the morning rush spread out a bit. My mood was restored by 2nd coffee time. I popped into the last bar in passing through Melide, and it turns out so did my two Frenchmen, the ones who shared their bread with me and whom we discussed the weather with that crazy bartender way back when. They treated me my coffee and we had a nice catch up.

Then I was back on the road alone, the crowds were gone and I was walking on pleasant country lanes with the sun shining bright, the smell of grass and eucalyptus trees in the air, and beautiful blown roses decorating everything. Aaaah....exhale....

Oops, I forgot.............to stop........

in Aruza (mile marker 39).  It was such a great day to walk and I was just clicking ever so closer to Santiago; if I kept going I could arrive there tomorrow. And then I wouldn't have to do hand-laundry tonight!

So I kept on trucking. It was shades of the Madrid Route, while the others were safely tucked into their beers, I'm alone and have the whole Way to myself. It really was a beautiful walk, besides the 2 towns and countless tiny hamlets, the way was almost all shady paths through forests, farms, and fields left wild. The sun was warm but I stayed cool and refreshed under the green bowers. There were some nice hills to climb as well, so I felt like I was getting a little exercise too.... :-)

I collapsed in a little pension in Brea, mile maker 23, at 6:30pm. I clocked in at about 45.2kms today. I hate to think what Bill is going to say about it tomorrow.

Day 27: Getting Closer

I woke up at 6am and couldn't see a thing out the window, so I crawled back into bed until 6:30.

It was a cool, breezy, damp, misty morning; and a cool, breezy, overcast day. Perfect for walking.

So I did. 34kms today. The Way was great first thing, but then became rather monotonous passing alongside the highway for most of the day. Pictures and thoughts were few...

It's odd, at this stage all the veteran walkers fall into one of two categories:
Fit And Fast or Hobbled And Struggling. The kicker is, some (like yours truly) fall into both. I've 3 weeks training under my pack and am finding walking addictive, I want to walk, I want to watch the kms click down, and walk further each day - maybe endorphins? But I'm hampered by late-game injuries. Luckily blisters heal quickly...

I'm spending the night in Palas de Rei, at mile-marker 65kms, so I'm set up to arrive Saturday in Santiago if I push it, or Sunday if I don't. I booked into the crowded municipal albergue, and who is sharing my room? - the 3 amigos! Miguel is back walking again after a day off, and they decided as a group they were crazy to attempt 40kms/day as they were all suffering some kind of ailment, so they will take an extra day and arrive SdC on Sunday.

We went out for a group dinner again with Emilio, another pilgrim in our room. Again, conversation was mostly in English, I think I'm good practice for them - they said they've forgotten some words in just the 2 days apart! I think Caesar will send me some pics.

Bill was like a pebble in my shoe all day...wait, that was a pebble. Sorry Bill, I take back all the bad things I said about you....

Thanks, Allison
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Day 26: 99.5 kms

Oh, albergue life! Mickey warned me about the Thermonuclear Snorer booked into the monastery's albergue yesterday afternoon; he even packed up his things and moved to a private albergue to avoid him. Did I listen? Nooo, how bad could this one man be? Well, thermonuclear worse! Earplugs couldn't even begin to soften the reverberations in my eardrums. There was nothing to it but wait for dawn....

This morning as we were getting ready to go, a Frenchman commented how tired he was of packing/unpacking his backpack. Well I guess so! He was RETURNING from Santiago, walking back to Lourdes, France; with his dog!
I asked if was difficult to find the arrows, walking in reverse, he replied that he just walks toward the line of pilgrims...

I had a slow start today. For the first hour Bill The Blister was acting like an unbroken horse, bucking when any weight was placed on him at all = agony. The 2nd hour was merely painful; then we all got along quite nicely for the rest of the day, though I was careful to limit my stops, as re-starting always took a bit of convincing....

Today matched my memory of being one of the best walks on the Camino. The path from Samos was again thru shady sunken paths, past quiet farms and fields, and probably the most tranquil-looking farmstead nestled by birch woods and a meandering stream that I've ever seen. There wasn't another pilgrim around for the first 2 hours at least. Actually, it was a very quiet day on the trail, I probably only saw a dozen or so walkers all day. Where did they go? Was I that late leaving? Or perhaps we all walked at the exact same pace so never met up....

The Barcelona Boys caught up with me just past Sarria (Cesar & Vincente; the 3rd amigo, Miguel from Madrid, has been felled by tendinitis).

We walked on and off together till Morgade, at Km 99.5 (passing the magic 100-Km mark!), a one building town where we all stopped for lunch. I ate with the Cdn gals, Sheena & Andre, while the boys chatted with a big group of cyclists.

100kms to go!!

Sheena, Andre and me lunching

I parted ways with everyone here. I had stayed in Morgade 4 years ago (the one building is a delightful Casa Rural and restaurant) which I wanted to experience again, and Bill & I had put in 26.6kms, which was enough for today.

There's now a 6-bed albergue as well as the hotel-part but I went for the luxury of a private room in hopes of actually catching some sleep tonight! It's a double room with a lovely pasture view, only €28! Funnily enough, we are all locking our rooms each time we go out, when for weeks we've been leaving all our belongings unattended in albergues, bars, grocery stores, etc.  I guess the communal spirit evaporates as soon as you have a key in your hand....

There's a big storm brewing on the hill just opposite, it's thundering away and darkening the horizon quite dramatically and is looking very threatening to my wet laundry. I'm out on the patio alone, watching it slide by, marveling at the show and the sounds of nature all around me. I find such tranquil accommodation much more preferable to albergues in larger villages. Sure, there's no services for miles around save for the in-house bar & restaurant, but it's quiet rural Spain, and that's what I've come to experience.

Day 25: Bill and I

OMG! Dawn was amazing!!! I walked out of the hotel at 6:50am (I know, I slept in), and out into a wonderland. O'Cebreiro was an island floating above the clouds and dawn was breaking on the horizon. I stood for ages watching the mist, swirling below like the ocean with fast-rolling tides. The trail swung me up and over the hill above town to look down over the clear valley on the other side, then back to the mist for the rest of the morning.

Bill, my blister, had to be coerced into my shoe this morning and wouldn't play along nicely until our first little hill. Then I think he figured out he might as well go along with it as I wasn't going to stop on his account.

The trail followed a high ridge for many kilometers on quiet paths just hidden from the highway by a tall hedgerow. The views were there in full force - I kept twisting my neck watching the green fields, small villages, peaks & valleys, and mist.

Poor Bill, I'm not very sympathetic with him. He's unhappy, and wells up with tears, and what do I do? Poke him till he cries. He'll get lots of love and attention tonight, but right now there's work to do!

I've been forced off trail by herd of cows! Twice!! I gave way naturally, being pinned against a wall will do that, and lived to tell the tale. It was actually an animal-filled day: roosters, cats doing silly things, cows, dogs who can't be bothered to lift their head nor move from the middle of the road, birds chirping, lizards sunning, etc etc.

I had my 2nd morning coffee with the Canadian gals and my 3 amigos, all discussing our day's destination. Triacastela = 21k, or Samos 30k? Bill and I will have a talk in Triacastela and see if we want to continue.

The afternoon had periods of the most perfect walking possible. The Way contracted into dark, leafy tunnels wending past fields and farms, with high stone walls sheltering the path, and sunlight only occassionally breaking through the shade. It was peaceful, refreshing, and got me through the day.

I did make the decision to go to Samos - my new friends would be there and Bill was fairly compliant. I was in the mood to walk; the longer I'm on the Camino, the more I want to walk. Not to rack up the miles, but it just feels good.

It didn't really feel that good - a hot day and thank goodness for those tunnels of green! A portion of the afternoon was along the highway, which was sweaty work, and thank goodness for the breeze those tractor-trailers make!

I made it. Bill's quiet. Laundry's done. Dinner consumed. Wine still being drunk, and laughs are being shared with my Canadian friends.

Dinner with Annamarie , she´s good and went to the evening service
while I stayed and drank with the Canadians!

Thanks, Allison
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