Day 7: and on to Santa Maria

A 7:30am start, tromping up into the old town then down and out the Santiago Gate in the old city walls to the country beyond. Once you exit the walls you are immediately in the country, surrounded by verdant green grass (wheat?) and brown fallow fields.

After 8.5kms at a steady pace I reached the town of Valseca. Just the right time for a coffee break. You can see the town for a long while off over the fields ahead before you finally get to it. And immediately you arrive at a large, beautiful church right on edge of town, with several 'lucky' crane nests on the steeple; I watched one parent swoop in with its' morning hunting spoils to feed its babies. The next welcome sight is the bar and my morning cafe con leche!

There are a couple of 'regulars' hanging out, shooting the breeze and 3 workers in their jumpsuits come in for a snack. I half-watch them and half-watch the TV but both are in Spanish... I love how the European men are not afraid of color. Even in this tiny agricultural town a man has the chutzpah to wear lavender-colored shoes.

<photo shoes>

It's a great walking day. High overcast skies, cool breeze (again! I've been soo lucky with the weather). But rain is forecast for tomorrow, will my luck hold?

Next the Camino has me stumbling over an old railway. The ties have gone but the big stones remain so it's rocky going. To the right is a fantastic planted forest of ...Poplars? Beeches? I don't know these trees but they create lovely tunnels of green that I want to run through...

A lovely pine forest is next - a day of surprising scenery. I stop beneath one for a little break.

Back into the fields again. I have no map, no GPS, just the narrow trail thru tall grass to follow, trusting it will take me where I need to go.

By 2pm I reached Ane, a fairly desolate-looking little village. I don't see a single soul around, not even a stray dog, and all the houses are buttoned up tight. There's a refugio here but there's dark clouds on the horizon and rain is due tonight so I'd better make kms today while dry and a cool breeze blowing. Just 11 more k's to go...

Emergency shoe repair. New application of duct tape for the shoes, compeed for potential hotspots, and sox liners - will my shoes last ??

Long uphill 6km to last village before SMdR. Just put head down and knocked it out.
Strong breeze last 2 km into Sta Maria, luckily on the beam else I'd be crying. I took a video of the grass waving. Arrived 5pm. Left Segovia at 7:30 so a long day. I'm tired but in good spirits.

<video>

Wandering into my day's destination, Santa Maria la Real de Nieva, a very nice but inebriated man got up from a bar in the town square and said 'aqui aqui', meaning come here, you've got the right place. Never quite believing I didn't speak any English he took me by the arm and walked me to the albergue, chattering the whole way. I got into a little trouble as you're supposed to call ahead, and I didn't, so we had to track down Javier who runs the place. Cute as a button this little albergue: 3 bunk beds, a tiny kitchen with all dishes/pots, etc and a lovely bathroom. All donativo (I slipped a ten-er into the box as I felt bad).

I thought I had it to myself but at 6:45pm 2 guys rock up. Michael turns out to be from Detroit, walking with his Spanish brother-in-law, Estefan. I fairly tackled him with English.

So much for my solitude but I enjoyed chatting with another pilgrim. I had resigned myself to hearing a little snoring tonight when at 8:45pm Javier returns to tell us that there will be 5 caballeros joining us (only 3 beds left!). Turns out this is a group of young army soldiers doing the Camino on horseback before they ship off to England in 3 weeks time. At 10:30 in they all poured, in their shiny knee-high boots and khaki breeches. Unfailingly polite and apologizing for disturbing us, they stripped off the remaining mattresses to create beds on the floor for themselves. They then disappeared to find Internet somewhere, and slipped in sometime after the 3 of us had gone to sleep.
I wish I could have taken a picture of us all squished in but I'm sure the flash would have woken some up, and I'm sure you don't want to frighten the military awake!
It has been mentioned that the grammar and punctuation in my writing has been a bit shocking (it's okay mum, I won't mention you by name). But in my defense, I am typing on a 2" keyboard while blogging from my telephone, so I'm trying to express my 'impressions' rather than worry too much about how I'm saying it. Apologies anyway.

Pilgrim Notes:
Just past Valseca there's a tiny bridge by stand of trees, and one small 1/2 flaked off arrow pointing to left down stairs by bulletin board. Manicured walk, winding, by creek & trees, didn't see any railway remains, = Los Huertos!!

There's fountains in Pinilla-Ambroz.
Don't miss the church in Sta Maria, have never seen a reno like it, and peaceful cloister.
Call ahead to your albergue! I was told all pilgrims must carry a phone, and give the hospitalero a couple of hours notice. Luckily Michael and Estefan each have phones so they will call ahead to Coca.