The hospitaleros had tea, coffee and bread & jam waiting for us at 6:30am. It was gratefully accepted but everyone downed their breakfast quickly so as to make an early start on the mountain. It was actually quite warm starting out, I had prepared my fleece and gloves but I was down to my t-shirt in no time.
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| Hard-working ladies, note the time! |
It was a stunning early morning walk. It was light enough out to walk but was still before sunrise, so as I climbed the sun rose slowly at my back, warming the colors of the white & yellow broom, pink heather, and other wildflowers until they glowed like candy. I was really in my element: sweeping mountain views, wonderful flora, cool temps, and some nice elevation - I could snap my fingers, I was so happy!
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| Just before sunrise |
Just an hour in, I came across the town of Foncebadon. Originally founded in the 12thC. by the hermit Gaucelmo, who built a church and pilgrim hospital, it was semi-abandoned until the Camino reawakened it. I obviously have the same instincts as on the last Camino because of the 4 bars in the village, I manage to have my coffee in the same featureless one as last time!
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| No, this was not the cafe.... |
A supposed highlight of the walk is passing the Cruz de Ferro, a big iron cross on a pile of rocks. Pilgrims bring stones from home to leave at the cross as a token of remembrance for a loved one, or as a symbolic relinquishing of a burden but to me it seemed to me to be just a big photo op. I had to wait about 10mins in line for my turn for a picture at the top! Guess I'm just a little cynical...
The manicured path afterwards was a bit of a letdown but I suppose the sheer volume of pilgrims walking would make any trail well-trodden... Soon enough, though, I was on a broad ridge heading toward the true 'Punto Alto' at 1515m, with humungous windmills revolving in the near-distance on ridges on both sides of me.
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| Kodak Photo Stop. I admit, I stopped and took a pic of the same view |
The first village, Acebo, was just a ghost town 4 years ago, and now there are signs advertising albergues, rooms, bars, and stores everywhere. I wished I had taken a photo of the mass of pilgrims lounging outside the first bar in town...(it's always the 1st bar too, I feel sorry for business owners at the far end of town...).
I almost stopped to stay in the 2nd town, as I remember being extremely tired by the time I arrived in Molinaseca the last Camino, but I'm stronger this time round so I pushed on. I kinda forgot though, that the albergues are waaay past town, and I was very tempted to keep on walking to Ponferrada, 7.8kms distant, rather than walk 1km back to town for dinner, then another 'K' back at night. I had a beer at the 1st albergue as I pondered my options and slowly lost the desire to go on. The first albergue offered a communal dinner so I decided to stay. Besides, my pants really needed washing and they require all the drying time they can get!
The 2 kind Spanish men who took my photo at the Cruz de Ferro became my hopscotch partners for the day. I'd pass them on the hills, and they'd pass me on the flats. The descents were anyone's game, no one was going fast for that. We magically met up just out of Molinaseca, and plodded down to the albergues together. I've lost them now, in the sea of French pilgrims here at the albergue. Maybe they'll show up at dinner....
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| Albergue |
Nope, no Spanish guys but had a fun meal with Cathy (Brit), Britsla (German), and Alex (Italy), and the French. Ate so much I can't move from my bunk...good thing bedtime is just 30mins away!
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| Cathy on right, Alex is hiding behind her |
Thanks, Allison
Sent from my iPhone
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