Day 14: A Pilgrim's Day

Pasquale (center) walking us out in the morning

Estefan called for an early start this morning: 6:30am, and we kinda do what Estefan wants. It was his dream to walk the Camino and Mike felt honored that he was asked to go with him, so he's happy to acceed to E's wishes. Me? Although I'm fine on my own, I'm happy to have Michael as my translator and Estefan seems to charm all the locals and hospitaleros we meet, so I'm tagging along for now.

Oh, so Estefan wanted an early start as his information had the beds available at the next albergue as #4 and he didn't want us to lose out to any bicyclists... 

Pasquale had a nice breakfast tray of coffee and snacks laid out for us by the time we'd rolled up our sleeping bags and packed our backpacks. This is a treat as it's not regularly included in the cost (last night was €4).  He walked us out several miles on the Camino, chattering away the whole time. I got given kisses on both cheeks and a poppy when we said goodbye, then it was out into the fields once more.

17kms, or about 4hrs straight before we reached our first town. This was more than I, as a dawdler, was used to, and so I was fairly drooping with tired tootsies and a growling tummy (I didn't eat at the albergue) when we finally arrived in Santervas.

No bar!! But there was a tiny shop and the clerk was really kind and opened up the albergue next door for us so we could sit down in the cool for our snacks.

We had a choice of making it a really long day and walking all the way to Sahagun (37kms total), or breaking it up into a 22km day today and a 15km walk tomorrow. All our feet voted for the latter and so we chose to go to Melgar for the night.

What we didn't anticipate was arriving at Melgar de Abajo, NOT Melgar de Arriba, which is 4kms further down the hard-surfaced highway. Obviously we missed an arrow out in the fields somewhere and added an unwanted hour to our day.

Esteban asking directions to Melgar de Arriba

We therefore came in the backside of town, but Estefan tackled a couple of locals and they coughed up where the albergue was. We picked up the keys from the town bar (free and 5 beds, so we each have our own room) and placed our order for lunch (actually, the cook told us what she was going to make us), and showered up before returning to eat.

Now I'm lying on my bunk typing up the last couple of days blogs, having just rescued my laundry from the rain. Estefan figured out the wall heaters work so we've plugged them in and are hanging our clothes over those. I've just woken Mike from his 3-hour nap and Estefan is doing his stretches in the next room.

A day in the life of this pilgrim...

Pilgrim Notes: Santervas - key was at tienda, 2 doors down from the albergue. There is actually a bar, but it didn't open till 1:00pm.

If you do decide to go to Melgar, the RIGHT one, follow indicated arrow at camino divergence, then go straight along dirt road. (we went left at an unmarked intersection - why do I listen to men?)

Melgar albergue

Melgar - the key is at the bar. When leaving the bar, take first right, walk along wall painted with cartoon characters, and albergue is over to left under. C.C. Palacio sign (beside closed Farmacia). It is currently being renovated so no water downstairs and unfunctioning kitchen. Rooms and bathroom upstairs fine, tho' very thin mattresses.

Thanks, Allison
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